Ethical Challenge of Fashion Influencers Endorsement: Analysing Communication and Consumption Culture
Abstract
The fast fashion trend is gaining popularity due to the presence of fashion influencers on social media despite its adverse impact on environmental sustainability. This research aims to explore the fashion influencers communication strategy, assess how fashion influencers endorsements contribute to the formation of consumptive culture, and investigate fashion influencers endorsement concepts that are more ethical. The qualitative research is used by employing the observations on six Indonesian fashion influencers Instagram accounts, and the interviews with three informants confirmed as being with three informants confirmed as affected by fashion influencers endorsement. The data were analysed using media content analysis and thematic analysis. The study concluded with three main findings. Firstly, fashion influencers employs persuasive and interactive communication strategies. Secondly, the formation of a consumptive culture results from the fashion expertise of influencers, which nurtures consumer satisfaction by promoting a consumptive lifestyle among consumers, even though they ultimately assess their consumption. Lastly, fashion influencers can be aligned to reconstruct more ethical endorsement by applying responsibility, sanctity, and sustainability principles.
Tren fast fashion saat ini semakin populer karena kehadiran fashion influencer di media sosial meskipun memiki dampak buruk terhadap keberlanjutan lingkungan. Penelitian ini bertujuan untuk mengeksplorasi strategi komunikasi fashion influencer, menemukan pola konstruksi konten promosi fashion influencer terhadap budaya konsumtif, serta memberikan kerangka endorsement oleh fashion influencer yang lebih etis. Penelitian ini menggunakan pendekatan kualitatif dengan metode pengumpulan data berupa observasi terhadap enam orang fashion influencer Indonesia serta wawancara terhadap tiga orang yang terkonfirmasi telah terdampak oleh konten promosi fashion influencer. Data yang ada kemudian dianalisis menggunakan konten analisis media dan analisis tematik. Hasil penelitian menghasilkan tiga temuan utama. Pertama, strategi komunikasi fashion influencer yakni persuasif dan interaktif. Kedua, terbentuknya budaya konsumtif berawal dari keahlian fashion influencer yang kemudian menimbulkan kepuasan konsumen dengan mempromosikan gaya hidup konsumtif, meskipun pada akhirnya konsumen mengevaluasi pola konsumsinya. Terakhir, fashion influencer dapat diarahkan untuk merekonstruksi pendekatan endorsement-nya agar lebih etis, dengan menerapkan prinsip tanggung jawab, sakral, dan keberlanjutan.
Keywords
Full Text:
PDFReferences
Aho, J. A. (1985). Rhetoric and the Invention of Double Entry Bookkeeping. Rhetorica: A Journal of the History of Rhetoric, 3(1), 21–43.
Akurat. (2019). Dibanding Karya Desainer, 80% Orang Indonesia Lebih Pilih Beli Fast Fashion—Akurat. Retrieved from 12 December 2023. https://www.akurat.co/trend/1302142245/Dibanding-Karya-Desainer-80-Orang-Indonesia-Lebih-Pilih-Beli-Fast-Fashion
Andhini, G. K., & Ramadhan, A. S. (2023). The Role of Social Media Influencer towards Fashion Brand Sales for Indonesia’s Young Consumers. . 8th International Conference on Business and Industrial Research (ICBIR), 155–160.
Arnaldi, S., & Bianchi, L. (2016). Responsibility in Science and Technology. Springer Fachmedien Wiesbaden.
Bardey, A., Booth, M., Heger, G., & Larsson, J. (2022). Finding yourself in your wardrobe: An exploratory study of lived experiences with a capsule wardrobe. International Journal of Market Research, 64(1), 113–131.
Baudrillard, J. (1988). Selected Writings. Polity Press.
Bocock, R. (1993). Consumption. Routledge.
Braun, V., & Clarke, V. (2006). Using thematic analysis in psychology. Qual Res Psychology, 3(2), 77–101.
Breves, P. L., Liebers, N., Abt, M., & Kunze, A. (2019). The Perceived Fit between Instagram Influencers and the Endorsed Brand: How Influencer–Brand Fit Affects Source Credibility and Persuasive Effectiveness. Journal of Advertising Research, 59(4), 440–454.
Broeder, P., & Wentink, E. (2022). Limited-time scarcity and competitive arousal in E-commerce. The International Review of Retail, Distribution and Consumer Research, 32(5), 549–567.
Browning, L. D., & Hartelius, E. J. (2018). Rhetorical Analysis in Management and Organizational Research. In The Handbook of Organizational Rhetoric and Communication (pp. 81–93). John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. .
Budiyati, U. N., & Diwanti, D. P. (2023). Pengaruh Marketing Influencer, Trend Fashion Muslim, Gaya Hidup Terhadap Perilaku Konsumtif Mahasiswa. Jurnal EMA, 8(1), 86–94.
Chartrand, T. L., & van Baaren, R. (2009). Chapter 5 Human Mimicry. In Advances in Experimental Social Psychology (Vol. 41, pp. 219–274). Academic Press.
Coeckelbergh, M. (2012). Moral Responsibility, Technology, and Experiences of the Tragic: From Kierkegaard to Offshore Engineering. Science and Engineering Ethics, 18(1), 35–48.
Ellen Macarthur Foundation. (2017). A New Textiles Economy: Redesigning Fashion’s Future.
Evans, D. (2011). Thrifty, green or frugal: Reflections on sustainable consumption in a changing economic climate. Geoforum, 42(5), 550–557.
Frier, S. (2017). Retrieved. Instagram to Make It Clearer When Influencer Posts Are Paid Ads. Retrieved from 24 December 2023. https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2017-06-14/instagram-to-make-it-clearer-when-influencer-posts-are-paid-ads
Gomes de Oliveira, L., Miranda, F. G., & de Paula Dias, M. A. (2022). Sustainable practices in slow and fast fashion stores: What does the customer perceive? Mer Perceive? Cleaner Engineering and Technology, 6, 100413.
Green, S. E. (2004). A Rhetorical Theory of Diffusion. The Academy of Management Review, 29(4), 653–669.
Grewal, L., Stephen, A. T., & Coleman, N. V. (2019). When Posting About Products on Social Media Backfires: The Negative Effects of Consumer Identity Signaling on Product Interest. Journal of Marketing Research, 56(2), 197–210.
Gunawan, N. P., & Iskandar, I. B. P. (2020). Analyzing the Impact of Fashion Influencer on Online Impulsive Buying Behavior. KnE Social Sciences, 350–363.
Higgins, C., & Walker, R. (2012). Ethos, logos, pathos: Strategies of persuasion in social/environmental reports. Accounting Forum, 36(3), 194–208.
Hsieh, H.-F., & Shannon, S. E. (2005). Three Approaches to Qualitative Content Analysis. Qualitative Health Research, 15(9), 1277–1288.
Indriyani, R., & Suri, A. (2020). Pengaruh Media Sosial Terhadap Keputusan Pembelian Melalui Motivasi Konsumen Pada Produk Fast Fashion. Jurnal Manajemen Pemasaran, 14(1), 25–34.
Jacobson, J., & Harrison, B. (2022). Sustainable fashion social media influencers and content creation calibration. International Journal of Advertising, 41(1), 150–177.
Jalees, T., & Raza, A. (2017). Extending TRA understanding compulsive buying behaviour. International Journal of Economics and Management, 11(1).
Kalambura, S., Pedro, S., & Paixão, S. (2020). Sanja Kalambura et al.: Fast Fashion-A Comparative Study of Portugal and Croatia. 29(2).
Kaufman, C. (2023). Consumerism, Sustainability, and Happiness: How to Build a World Where Everyone Has Enough (1st ed.). Routledge.
Ki, C. W. ‘Chloe,’ Cuevas, L. M., Chong, S. M., & Lim, H. (2020). Influencer marketing: Social media influencers as human brands attaching to followers and yielding positive marketing results by fulfilling needs. Journal of Retailing and Consumer Services, 55.
Lee, M., & Park, T. (2023). Effects of Disclosing Discount Code Commissions on Perceived Influencer Sincerity and Attitude toward Discount Code Use. Asia Marketing Journal, 25(1), 26–36.
Liao, C., Lin, H. N., Luo, M. M., & Chea, S. (2017). Factors influencing online shoppers’ repurchase intentions: The roles of satisfaction and regret. Information & Management, 54(5), 651–668.
Lundblad, L., & Davies, I. A. (2016). The values and motivations behind sustainable fashion consumption. Journal of Consumer Behaviour, 15(2), 149–162.
Magano, J., Au-Yong-oliveira, M., Walter, C. E., & Leite, Â. (2022). Attitudes toward Fashion Influencers as a Mediator of Purchase Intention. Information 2022, Vol. 13, Page 297, 13(6), 297.
Marsh, S. (2017). Social media stars breaching rules on promoting brands, watchdog says. Retrieved from 1 January 2024. https://www.theguardian.com/media/2017/oct/05/social-media-stars-breaching-rules-on-promoting-brands-watchdog-says-instagram-twitter
Nainggolan, I. (2018). In-depth: Minat Belanja Dipengaruhi Fashion Influencer Instagram, Ini Faktanya! Retrieved from 16 December 2023. https://review.bukalapak.com/fashion/in-depth-minat-belanja-dipengaruhi-fashion-influencer-instagram-ini-faktanya-80896
Nava, M. (1987). Consumerism and its contradictions. Cultural Studies, 1(2), 204–210.
Niinimäki, K., Peters, G., Dahlbo, H., Perry, P., Rissanen, T., & Gwilt, A. (2020). The environmental price of fast fashion. Nature Reviews Earth and Environment, 1(4), 189–200.
Orminski, J., Tandoc, E. C., & Detenber, B. H. (2021). #sustainablefashion–A Conceptual Framework for Sustainable Fashion Discourse on Twitter. Environmental Communication, 15(1), 115–132.
Salem Khalifa, A. (2004). Customer value: A review of recent literature and an integrative configuration. Management Decision, 42(5), 645–666.
Salem, S. F., & Alanadoly, A. B. (2021). Personality traits and social media as drivers of word-of-mouth towards sustainable fashion. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 25(1), 24–44.
Schindler, R. M., & Minton, E. A. (2022). What becomes sacred to the consumer: Implications for marketers. Journal of Business Research, 151, 355–365.
Solis, B. (2010). Engage! The Complete Guide For Brands And Businesses To Build, Cultivate, And Measure Success In The New Web. New York.
Stanko, M. A. (2016). Toward a Theory of Remixing in Online Innovation Communities. Information Systems Research, 27(4), 773–791.
Starr, B. E. (1999). The Structure of Max Weber’s Ethic of Responsibility. Journal of Religious Ethics, 27(3), 407–434.
Sugiyono. (2022). Metode Penelitian Kualitatif (Edisi Ke-3). Penerbit Alfabeta.
Van Baaren, R., Janssen, L., Chartrand, T. L., & Dijksterhuis, A. (2009). Where is the love? The social aspects of mimicry. Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society B: Biological Sciences, 364(1528), 2381.
Vincent, N. A. (2011). A Structured taxonomy of responsibility concepts. In N. A. Vincent, I. van de Poel, & J. van den Hove (Eds.), Moral responsibility (pp. 15–35). Springer.
Wightman-Stone, D. (2019). UK shoppers believe influencers are behind rise in fast fashion. Retrieved from 28 December 2023. https://fashionunited.uk/news/fashion/uk-shoppers-believe-influencers-are-behind-rise-in-fast-fashion/2019102245858
Yan, R. N., Diddi, S., & Bloodhart, B. (2021). Predicting clothing disposal: The moderating roles of clothing sustainability knowledge and self-enhancement values. Cleaner and Responsible Consumption, 3, 100029.
Yu, E., Jung, C., Kim, H., & Jung, J. (2018). Impact of viewer engagement on gift-giving in live video streaming. Telematics and Informatics, 35(5), 1450–1460.
Zamani, B., Sandin, G., & Peters, G. M. (2017). Life cycle assessment of clothing libraries: can collaborative consumption reduce the environmental impact of fast fashion? Journal of Cleaner Production, 162, 1368–1375.
DOI: https://doi.org/10.24815/jkg.v13i1.37492
Article Metrics
Abstract view : 0 timesPDF - 0 times
Refbacks
- There are currently no refbacks.
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.
Jurnal Komunikasi Global (JKG)
Program Studi Ilmu Komunikasi, Fakultas Ilmu Sosial dan Ilmu Politik, Universitas Syiah Kuala
Jln. Tgk. Tanoh Abee, Darussalam, Banda Aceh, 23111
Telp. (0651) 7555267
Email: jkg@usk.ac.id
Published by:
Indexed by: